You know those places you pin to your “Travel Bucket List” on Pinterest but think you’ll never REALLY get the chance to experience? Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok National Park was that place for me. When we began planning our trip to Thailand, staying in an overwater bungalow on Cheow Lan Lake was 100% my #1 destination and absolutely the highlight of our time in Thailand. Whether you’ve never heard of Khao Sok National Park or you’re already daydreaming about it, I hope this post convinces you to make it a top priority! It fits perfectly into the best 2-week Thailand itinerary out there, & of course, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know before you go spend magical nights in overwater bungalows on Cheow Lan Lake. 

Before we head off, lets make sure were all doing our best to travel consciously and sustainably.

Are you prepared for the most serene experience of your Thailand trip, and possibly your whole life?? Awesome. Let’s do itttttt

What We Will Cover About Cheow Lan Lake

• How to Plan a Trip to Khao Sok National Park & Where to Stay on Cheow Lan Lake
• What to Pack for Cheow Lan Lake
• Getting to Khao Sok National Park
• What To Do on Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok
• Why You Should Book with Kim – The Best Tour Guide in Thailand

Quick Overview of Cheow Lan Lake

I was a bit confused about this at first, but basically Khao Sok is a National Park, and Cheow Lan Lake is a lake located inside the National Park. It’s located in the southern peninsula of Thailand, a few hours drive north of Phuket in the Surat Thani Province (Surat Thani is also the closest airport). The massive jungle houses elephants, tigers, monkeys, various birds, and creepy crawlies, while the lake is man made & controlled by a dam. Before the valley was flooded, it’s inhabitants were relocated, leaving a lost world beneath the surface. Below the water, deep down, there lies a jungle, historic temples, and a massive river. You can see evidence of what was lost by all the random trees that appear to be sprouting out in the middle of the lake.

The lake wasn’t completely filled until the late 1980’s. I’d guess that’s the reason there isn’t a ton of information about staying on Cheow Lan Lake online. Because there isn’t a lot of deets online, it hasn’t really hit the mainstream tourism industry in Thailand yet. And y’all, THAT is what makes it so freaking special. When you’re there you just KNOW you’ve hit the jackpot. You KNOW that you are experiencing this incredible hidden gem of Thailand that will surely become more and more popular over the years. Go embrace it now while it feels like Thailand’s best kept secret.  

Side note: this is one of the perks in my mind of staying in overwater bungalows on Cheow Lan Lake – there is no internet in the bungalows & power can be spotty if available at all. Take these few days as a chance to disconnect, reset & recharge.

How to Plan a Trip to Khao Sok National Park & Where to Stay on Cheow Lan Lake

First things first. Book ASAP. There are not a ton of accommodation options, so they book out well in advance. I’ll be honest, this was something I still struggled to do even though I booked more than 6 months out. It wasn’t nearly as easy as booking a hotel in Bangkok on Booking.com. The resources out there about Khao Sok are limited. I tried to call the company we used a few times but when I called they were either closed (#timezones) or the employees who answered only spoke Thai, sooo they couldn’t really help us over the phone. You can technically book online by using the “INQUIRE NOW” button, but I was struggling to find dates that worked. If I had continued to call I’m sure I would’ve eventually caught up with the staff members who spoke English, but I went the more complicated route and found a travel agent who spoke Thai who could help us book. I can’t say I would recommend this approach, it’s lazy and a bit unnecessary.

All of this to say, I highly recommend using the same company, and booking online. Definitely book at least 2 nights. 1 night just isn’t enough time to fully enjoy the magical beauty of Khao Sok. If you really want some time to disconnect from the outside world, you could book an even longer tour. IMO, 2 nights was perfect.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Book through Khao Sok Tours and request Kim as your guide. It would be worth it to adjust your dates on the lake to make sure you can line them up with Kim. More on why he’s the best later.

Your overwater bungalow options range vastly in terms of, let’s call it, “luxury”. We booked a 3 day 2 night tour in a “Modern Comforts” room. If you’re totally unphased by basic accommodations and looking to save some extra baht, this is a great option. We paid around $350 USD each for the 3 day 2 night tour. This included the boat ride to and from the bungalows (about a 30 minute ride each way), all our meals, fresh fruit,  lodging, trekking, kayaking, etc. Pretty much anything you could need during your stay. The only things that would cost extra would be if you wanted to buy a Leo or two, or three, or four… No judgement.

If you can spare a few extra baht, I’d recommend booking “Luxury on the Lake”. The Modern Comforts was fine, but our 5-inch, 8-legged, web-building guest and I didn’t really get along. And by get along I mean I brushed my teeth in the kitchen bathrooms every night and didn’t shower for 2 days because I refused to step foot in our bathroom. I’m TERRIFIED of spiders, but thankfully everything else about our floating bungalows on Cheow Lan Lake was amazing.

What to Pack for Cheow Lan Lake

You honestly don’t need that much for a few days on the lake, and TBH you can’t fit that much on the Thai Longtail boats anyways. Below is a recommended packing list, I mean besides the usuals like underwear & toothpaste, I shouldn’t need to outline that for ya:

• Bathing suit
• Trekking clothes. I’d suggest long pants for the jungle
• Lounge Clothes
• Walking shoes. I just wore tennis shoes, Austin wore Chacos. Both were fine. The paths are mostly flat
• A hat. Considering there was a spider in our shower, I didn’t shower the whole time we were there (gross I know). So my hat came in veryyyyyy clutch when I needed to hide my 3-day old hair
• Rain jacket
• Quick dry towel (this is the one we use), you could technically bring a normal beach towel but they just take up a lot of space.
• Sunscreen
• Bug spray
• Bug repellent wrist bands. We got 4 of these and both wore 1 on one wrist and 1 on the opposite ankle. They smell pretty strong but not a bad smell! I’m convinced they work, but they aren’t a necessity.
• Camera, or at least a good phone camera! All of the photos in this post were taken on my iPhone 10
• Portable battery pack if you need to charge a camera or phone, not that there is any cell service
• Our guides actually packed their stuff in these cool waterproof bags, I wouldn’t say they’re super necessary but if you’d use them again it’d be a good purchase

• Headlamp. If you don’t have one you can rent one from the office. You’ll need this for the caves
• Optional: binoculars. I gave Austin SUCH a hard time for bringing binoculars & was making fun of him until we actually ended up using them a bunch, lol whoops. On the morning safari boat rides the binoculars come in handy when you’re trying to spot cutie gibbons swinging from tree to tree.
• Playing cards, book, or other leisurely way to pass time
• Cash. In general, it’s always smart to have a little cash on you. But in particular we used it to buy Leo’s to drink in the evenings & a treat or two in the little shop. We also tipped our guides really well at the end of our trip because they were the real MVPs.
• A few granola or protein bars. My personal favorite are GoMacro bars. I’d bring these just in case you get hungry when it’s not the main meal time. You will be fed PLENTY during your meals, but personally I like to eat something IMMEDIATELY after I wake up. If you don’t have any snacks & get desperate you can always get a little something from the convenience store.

Getting to Khao Sok National Park

For around $150, the Khao Sok Tours picked us up directly from the lobby of our hotel in Koh Lanta, swapped drivers after the island ferry, then drove us the 3 hour trek to Khao Sok National Park where we met up with our tour guides. This was by far the easiest way to get there, and 100% worth every dollar not to worry about figuring out how to find the tour company’s main office. 

Once you arrive at the main office you’ll get a chance to lock up and leave any items you don’t want to bring on the lake. You can’t bring a large suitcase on the boat to the bungalows, so you’re gonna wanna plan ahead and pack a separate bag. All you’ll really need is a small duffel or backpack with clothes & toiletries for a few days. If you didn’t bring a headlamp they have ones you can “rent” for a few bucks (you definitely want to do this). Once you’ve stored your luggage away, settled any outstanding payments, & snagged your headlamp you’ll head out with your tour guide to the lake!

The drive from the main office to the lake is around 20-30 minutes, we almost ran over a 6 foot snake, but thankfully made it out alive. After you get to the docks on Cheow Lan Lake, you’ll head over to the counter to purchase your entrance ticket to the National Park, which only costs 300 baht (~$10 USD) per person. From there your guides will walk you to their traditional Thai Longtail Boat & you’ll set off for the bungalows. Woo! Now y’all are all set & ready to live on water for the next few days!!

What To Do on Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok

Cheow Lan Lake is one of those experiences where it’s hard for your brain to even grasp how freaking awesome the views around you are. The cliffs towering over you as you fly by on traditional Thai longtail boats feels like a scene out of some James Bond movie. Your trip will start with a 30 minute or so boat ride from the docks to your bungalows. During our quick boat trip, Kim cut up a fresh pineapple into the most beautiful design & gave us local snacks to try that he’d picked up from the market.

After you’ve made your way across the glassy lake to your set of floating bungalows, you’ll be escorted to your room & told all the house rules. From then on, your stay will consist of morning jumps into the lake, jungle walks, cave exploring, leisurely canoe rides, sunrise & sunset boat safari’s, fresh fish, authentic Thai food, & countless Leo’s.

If you book the same tour we did, below is a sample itinerary:

Day 1:

• 10 AM – Arrive at tour company office
• 11 AM – Drive to lake, pay park entrance fees, and hop on your boat
• 11:30 AM – Arrive at your floating bungalow!!!
• 12 – 5 PM – DIY, canoe, swim, nap, read, snack, whatever your heart desires
  • Since the lake covered up an existing river, there is a current that still runs beneath the surface. Because of this, the guides are pretty serious about not letting people swim in the water without life jackets. You can always sit in your life jacket upside down though! Turns it into a sort of floating chair. 
• 5 PM – Sunset Safari Boat Cruise. This is probably up there on my list of most relaxing adventures. All you need is a camera, binoculars, and maybe a bottle of water. You won’t even be getting out of the boat! 
• 7 PM – Dinner
• 7:30 PM & On – DIY, except swimming or canoeing. They don’t allow anyone out onto the lake at night (seems reasonable). Drink a Leo, go to bed early, chat with other guests. Whatever floats your boat, or should I say bungalow? Sorry, couldn’t help myself…

Day 2: 

• 7 AM – Wake up & get ready for the day! Bonus points if you jump in the lake first
• 7:30 AM – Breakfast. We had a choice of America breakfast consisting of eggs and toast, or a Thai breakfast of rice porridge with seafood on top (I personally went with toast, Austin’s a bit more of an adventurous eater & had the porridge). I drank lots of instant coffee on Cheow Lan Lake!
• 8:30 AM – Boat ride to jungle safari.
• 8:30 AM to 1 PM – Jungle Safari – This time you will actually be getting out of the boat. This is when you will want to prepare with bug spray & I’d recommend wearing long pants. You’ll also need a bottle of water, your head lamp, and some good walking shoes. The walk is mostly flat, but since it rains quite often it can be a bit slippery. At the other side of the jungle path you’ll hop onto a bamboo raft and head over to the caves with actively growing stalactite and stalagmite that sparkles in the light of your headlamp.
• 1 PM – Lunch
• 1:30 – 5 PM – DIY, I spent my time talking with Kim about his life, this is when he made Austin and I both wedding bands out of a fern he grabbed during our jungle walk
• 5 PM – Sunset Safari Boat Cruise
• 7 PM – Dinner
• 7:30 PM & On – DIY

Day 3:

• 6:30 AM – Wake up & pack up. Once you leave for your Sunrise Safari you won’t be coming back. Wear comfortable shoes & bug spray this time
• 7 AM – Sunrise Safari Boat Cruise – we found a family of monkeys eating on some low hanging branches by the water! Kim cut up pieces of fruit and we threw them to the monkeys. It was a super cool experience.
• 10:30 – 11:30 AM – Jungle walk. This trek was different from the 1st. It was lower altitude and a bit less exciting, although we saw some cool plants
• 11:30 AM – Boat ride to see the famous 3 rock formations. They are amazing and as beautiful as they look in photos. We pulled over to the side and ate some sandwiches on the boat before heading back to the docks.
• 12:30 PM – Arrive back at the docks. From here your guides will take you back to the main office to collect the rest of your things. Don’t forget to get a photo or two with your guides, and tip them well!! From the main office we headed to the Surat Thani airport to fly to Bangkok. What you do all depends on your Thailand itinerary!

Why You Should Book with Kim

For 3 days it was just Austin and I, our guide Kim, and our Thai longtail boat driver, Sun. We learned so much from Kim about the history of the lake on our safari boat tours, and even more about the jungle and its inhabitants on our jungle walks. Kim has such an immense love for the jungle, and it really shows which gave us the unparalleled opportunity to appreciate the lake and animals through his eyes.

For a few years, Kim had predominantly German guests after a German couple did a tour and wrote a travel guide about it. Even though he hasn’t been to school since he was a child, he knows like 4 languages fluently. He can tear off a piece of grass and turn it into a beautiful braided ring. (I still wear mine when we go to the beach!). He knows everything there is to know about the plants, insects, and animals of the jungle, & his laugh makes everyone around him light up. 

We saw a few other tour groups who had guides in bright color polos with tour logos on them, pointing out different plants and insects on the jungle path. Meanwhile, we’re 15 feet off the path with Kim who is lighting a small hole of a massive tree on fire to show us how rubber trees ooze black rubber. Or the other time when 3 small tour groups stopped to watch us as I tried to convince Kim to put down the 10 inch spider he plucked from a giant web and let crawl all over his head while telling me: “it okay, it okay, won’t bite unless you not let him move”. To be honest, I was NOT feeling very reassured, but thankfully we all left the jungle spider-bite free. Every time we walked past any locals, they all knew Kim, hugged him, gave him snacks & honestly made us feel like we were hanging with a local celebrity. Sleeping in a floating bungalow on the Cheow Lan Lake is surreal, but the true highlight is Kim.